h a l f b a k e r yNaturally, seismology provides the answer.
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I really hate noisy photos, yet this is something I must contend with constantly, having to do a lot of indoor photography without the luxury of an SLR's large sensor (mine is a 1/2.5" CCD).
Of course I can use heavy stacking for still images, post-processing of RAW images with various software filters,
exposure bracketing and averaging and a few other tricks, but it would just be so much easier if the camera provided a clean signal to begin with.
I'm just wondering how technically feasible adding active cooling to the CCD would be? It is a tiny chip, and I'm guessing the cooling cycle could be fairly rapid, so as not to kill the batteries too much (of course these solid-state coolers are extremely inefficient) or cause condensation on the CCD.
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Why not just buy a camera with a bigger sensor?
But of course, this *is* the HB, so [+] |
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Baked. See wikipedia entry for Thermoelectric Cooling #Uses for details. |
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Well, having a smaller sensor does have at least one advantage - the optics can be scaled down as well. Maybe also cheaper to produce as defective spots on a wafer would have a lower probability of impacting any one chip. |
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Looked at wiki and saw nothing new unfortunately (but it is late). I'm proposing that this technology be used in pocket cameras, like my A570is. My fz30 could really use a dose of cold - it's basically useless in low light. |
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It can certainly be done, but for optimum performance, maybe a pocket-sized dewar of LN2 ? |
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//but for optimum performance, maybe a pocket-sized dewar of LN2 //
And for ultimate camera shake, a pocket dewar of Dewars. |
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// a pocket dewar of Dewars // |
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"A shooter, whilst waiting for game,
Warmed his feet with a Malt of some fame.
Though fine for the toes
He found the fumes rose,
And a four-barreled gun hard to aim ......"
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How cold does it have to be? The LN2 mentioned or C-CO2 certainly seems more efficient. Or run a heat pipe to an evaporative cooler, or a tiny hand pumped heat pump. |
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