h a l f b a k e r yBreakfast of runners-up.
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I have a hard time believing this is not baked, but I could not find one. This is a variation of the flush-cut "Japanese" pull saws. The difference is the blade has a moderate curve, not as extreme as a semicircle though. The teeth are placed on the convex side of the saw and operate on the pull stroke
to prevent binding of the thin blade. This would allow you to place the saw flush with the floor and cut into a wall or stud without the end of the saw hitting the wall itself, enabling a decent depth of cut.
(?) Bear saw.
http://www.realoakf...edium_no_bs333c.php
[2 fries shy of a happy meal, Mar 01 2009]
(?) like this
http://www.dick.biz...t/712113/detail.jsf
This kataba does exactly what you want. [zeno, Mar 01 2009]
search images
https://www.google....gC&biw=1024&bih=667
convex saws. Need to page down a bit. [popbottle, Dec 18 2016]
[link]
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I think that a bear saw, [link] is about as close as you'll find in a hand tool.
You're right though, if it also had teeth on the curved side of the blade and a reversible handle I would buy one if for no other reason than undercutting the corner moldings on cabinet kicks. |
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I understand what you mean and why you would want it. But I do not see the advantage of this over a kataba. |
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The end of this saw is rounded enabeling you to start cuts mid-panel. |
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//This would allow you to place the saw flush with the floor and cut into a wall or stud without the end of the saw hitting the wall itself, enabling a decent depth of cut.// The kataba is perfect for this. Cheap and very high quality. |
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[zeno] great link. I must now buy this |
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You must indeed. I did and I use it for various carpentry stuff and also for on site construction stuff. It allows me to saw straight and deep in the most unlikely places where others would resort to hacking and destruction. |
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