h a l f b a k e r yTempus fudge-it.
add, search, annotate, link, view, overview, recent, by name, random
news, help, about, links, report a problem
browse anonymously,
or get an account
and write.
register,
|
|
|
Rifle Jenga requires two or more people with rifles (or
pistols), and a Rifle Jenga set. The blocks in Rifle Jenga
are
about a foot long, and a few inches on the other sides,
and
are made of solid steel.
Rules: players take turns to take shots. Ten points if a
block
is successfully
displaced without toppling the tower.
Collapsing the tower (which ends the game) is a 30 point
penalty. Failing to hit the tower at all is a 20 point
penalty (to discourage tactical missing). Players may, if
they wish, use their shot to nudge a partially-out block
back
into position, thereby thwarting their rival's effort to
displace
it.
YouTube: Boom Blox
https://www.youtube...watch?v=TpMkCF3AdMY
So like this, but less virtual, and with more actual firearms? [zen_tom, Oct 02 2013]
Jenga Pistol
http://woodgears.ca...a_pistol/index.html
For conventional Jenga [mitxela, Oct 02 2013]
Big Gun
http://en.wikipedia.../wiki/GAU-8_Avenger
[bs0u0155, Oct 02 2013]
Also Big Gun
http://www.theblaze...er-rifle-in-action/
[MikeD, Oct 02 2013]
Prior art in metallic targets
http://en.wikipedia...silhouette_shooting
Formerly known as "Mexican silhouettes"; name changed to cater to the feelings of those who couldn't understand that the Mexicans were the inventors, rather than the targets [lurch, Oct 02 2013]
Shooting at iron can have unintended side effects
http://www.youtube....watch?v=0ABGIJwiGBc
[normzone, Oct 02 2013]
[link]
|
| |
Might the players also use the butt-stock of their rifle to apply a friendly distracting whack to the occiput of the other player during game play? |
|
| |
[+]... Making a game of physics and firearms brings forth tears of happiness from mine eyes. |
|
| |
//Might the players also use the butt-stock of their
rifle// |
|
| |
I'm recommending "no". However, tactical ricochets
would be a different matter. |
|
| |
And from the title I expected this to be an [Alterother] idea. |
|
| |
It's a great idea, I love it, but it needs one detail fixed:
even a huge anti-tank rifle like a Solothern would be
incapable of moving a 1' long solid steel Jenga-proportion
block (which off the top of my head I estimate would weigh
around 70lbs.), much less knocking one out of a stack.
Here's my bun with the understanding that a little more
work will be done regarding that single flaw. |
|
| |
[21], I'm slowly developing my promised 'just one gun'
halfbake, but I'll give you a sneak preview: it's a bespoke
rifle made to fire unconventional ammunition very long
distances. Think transcontinental. |
|
| |
If the blocks were hollow, exceptionally square, and smooth; and coated in a lubricant, I could *possibly* see this working with a rifle or shotgun. |
|
| |
And, thanks [21q]. It has been a while. I have been busy putting my knowledge of evolutionary psychology to use for the purpose of debauching a healthy variety of nubile young college co-eds... but now that a meaningful monogamous relationship has saved me from all of that, (soft sounds of muffled sobs), I am free to focus on the important things in life. |
|
| |
//even a huge anti-tank rifle like a Solothern would
be incapable of moving a 1' long solid steel Jenga-
proportion block (which off the top of my head I
estimate would weigh around 70lbs.), much less
knocking one out of a stack.// |
|
| |
They do make 30mm cannon you know... |
|
| |
It's not necessary to knock a block out in a single
shot - part of the fun is trying to nudge a block out
over several goes, and hoping your opponent doesn't
make the winning shot. |
|
| |
I wondered about hollow blocks, but they have to be
able to withstand multiple hits. |
|
| |
<Wanders away grinning and twitching, to pile up some steel blocks> |
|
| |
//Rubber bullets?// I belive that the use of non-lethal projectiles
is likely to be contra-indicated. |
|
| |
I did think about rubber blocks, to make players
think more carefully before firing. |
|
| |
I hadn't considered rubber bullets, but I'm not really
a fan. I don't condone shooting people (or things)
but, if you are going to shoot, shoot as if you mean
it. |
|
| |
If you make the blocks out of 1/2" steel plate--and temper
them, and break all the edges and corners, and polish them
up with a 2000g wheel, and liberally coat them with
graphite powder--you could probably knock one out of a
stack with a .50 BMG or a .456, maybe even a .338 Lapua or
one of the panopoly of antiquated safari rounds. Maybe.
The blocks might have to be internally gusseted to transfer
the impact energy evenly through the structure, but that's
engineer's work. |
|
| |
I can tell you that a 12"L x 5"W x 3"H x 1/2"th mild steel
box would weigh a little over 20 lbs and built properly it
would be relatively bouncy compared to a solid steel block. |
|
| |
I'm actually going out to a sand pit to zero my hunting rifle
tomorrow. I'll bring some scrap metal and do a little
experimentation. |
|
| |
Real Men prefer Sledgehammer Jenga. |
|
| |
Blocks would need to have a concave face to help
center the impact, otherwise a round might simply
deflect off. |
|
| |
Mythbusters did something similar, although
admittedly it was with a 500-lb children's merry-go-
round. |
|
| |
Did they remove the children first? |
|
| |
shooting at solid steel. I see no way this could end
badly and I give it my full support. |
|
| |
If you use soft-point rounds (upon which the copper jacket
does not extend all the way to the bullet's tip, leaving the
lead core exposed) there is practically no chance of a
dangerous ricochet. Steel plates suspended from hinges are
a common target used for long-distance rifle practice and
even using ball ammo most of the bullets fall to the ground
directly below the point of impact. For Rifle Jenga we'll
definitely be using soft-points so that the maximum amount
of energy is transferred to the blocks. |
|
| |
We got yours right here ... |
|
| |
So once again I've been shooting things for science.
Here goes: |
|
| |
I found in my scrap pile two chunks of 4" x 4" square tube
(both 3/8" wall thickness and ~12" long) and tack-welded
squares of 1/2" plate to one end of each. Up at my local
sand pit I carefully leveled a patch of ground and put down
a half-sheet of clean, painted plywood (exterior latex, I
believe), then set the 'blocks' on that, one facing me, one
end-on. Using Remington 6.8mm SPC 120 grain soft points, I
fired from 200' (the rifle for this test is my custom crafted
6.8mm AR-15 with a 16" 1:9 barrel, topped with a 3-
9x32mm Federal Optics Countersniper III scope). |
|
| |
Resting individually on a smooth surface, the blocks can
definitely be moved by the impact of a bullet. The block
facing me moved back an inch or more when struck at or
near the center (the furthest it slid with a single shot was
about 2 1/4") and it spun nearly ninety degrees when struck
close to the end. |
|
| |
The block facing end-on was, predictably, harder to budge.
It slid only 3/4" when struck dead center, and hardly at all
when struck near the edges. This may have had some to do
with my mock-up work, as after only nine shots the tack
welds broke and the end plate fell off. The dynamic might
have been different had I fully welded it. |
|
| |
When I stacked the blocks, however, everything changed.
The
top block fell off nearly every time it was struck on the
wide face and moved easily when struck on the end, but
the bottom block hardly moved at all no matter what angle
I fired from. |
|
| |
As for ricochet, there were none. All of my bullets that
weren't completely disintegrated on impact came to rest on
or near the plywood. |
|
| |
Further experimentation is possible, but I'd like to do it in
as few trips as possible, so questions and suggestions will
be hoarded until there are enough to warrant another test
day. |
|
| |
An accurate test probably requires at least 9
blocks, in three layers. If any of the middle blocks
can be punched out of the stack, it's probably
doable. |
|
| |
One caveat that worries me. One of the
advantages of wood is that it is slightly uneven.
That means that a given block might not have the
full weight of the stack on it, which makes it
easier to remove. You might actually benefit
from slightly warped steel |
|
| |
I thought of that, and I could have gotten my torch and oil-
canned one side a bit, but the whole point of going out to
the pit was to zero my scope for hunting season, which
doesn't take much time, so I didn't make extra room on my
schedule. |
|
| |
Alterother, I bow in your general direction. You deserve an award - I'll search for an appropriate one. Going to Arizona this weekend, just the place to be looking ;-) |
|
| |
There's an airplane graveyard out there; bring me back an
F4 Phantom. I'll turn it into a jungle gym. |
|
| |
And please, I'm not in this for adulation or prestige. I
simply believe that it is the duty of all amateur marksmen
to devote their skills and equipment to the cause of
Science whenever possible. Also, I enjoy shooting at
inanimate objects in a safe and responsible manor. |
|
| |
Or in a sand pit. Whichever. |
|
| |
I only know of one person around here who is in
possession of a "manor", but I wouldn't be tempted to
term it "safe and responsible". |
|
| |
That's why I went to the pits instead. |
|
| |
I like this idea, but with a pyramid made of cans of
spray paint. Maybe with a target pistol or even a
powerful pellet gun. |
|
| |