h a l f b a k e r y"This may be bollocks, but it's lovely bollocks."
add, search, annotate, link, view, overview, recent, by name, random
news, help, about, links, report a problem
browse anonymously,
or get an account
and write.
register,
|
|
|
Each player starts with 16,841 "movement points"[1].
Points per move are calculated by multiplying the number of squares moved by a reference value for each type of chesspiece based on power.
Pawn: 1
Bishop: 3
Knight: 4 [2]
Rook: 5
Queen: 8
King: 4 [3]
Sample moves:
Pawn
first move, up two squares : 2x1 = 2 points
Bishop diagonal 5 squares: 3x5 = 15 points
Short-side Castle: 5x2 + 4x2 = 18 points.
Points are subtracted for each move until a checkmate is reached or a player runs out of points. In the case of a "draw", the player with the highest amount of points remaining is declared the winner. Stalemates can be calculated to run points out for one side or the other.
Skill level can be introduced by making the endgame movement point lower and lower.
Footnotes:
[1] - right out of my ass
[2] - though the Knight is often thought of as slightly less powerful than the Bishop, each of it's L-shaped moves only count as 2 squares: one straight plus one diagonal so we're accounting for that.
[3] - while the King is the most important piece, it's attack options are rather limited
inspiration from perspiration
He-Man_20Chess_20Set
can't you just see the players thinking "I am *not* going to move that rook 8 squares" [FlyingToaster, Dec 13 2009]
[link]
|
| |
Most chess games end in less than 50 moves, so you might want to reduce the number of "movement points" available. [] because getting competent at normal chess took long enough! |
|
| |
true. It's not *that* different from regular chess except you have to move very conservatively. |
|
| |
For the piece-values I've just used (more or less) the standard capture values... not sure if it's really relevant, but it gives the general idea. |
|
| |
This is over my head, it is probably very bunworthy though+ |
|
| |
that's going to be one long game of chess. I think that 400 points or thereabouts is more likely to be substantive. Not sure how there is any strategy here either. |
|
| |
//400 points// yes, well... footnote 1... |
|
| |
Strategy I think would tend towards that automatically favoured by a mature player; slow build-up of fortifications. You might be able to get away with exposing pieces to possible capture if the enemy has to consider their "supply line". |
|
| |
[note: post is still under construction for clarity] |
|
| |
Love the idea, However, it should be on a computerized/sensor chess board so I don’t have to do all that math….. |
|
| |
Variation: have movement points attributed to each piece [or piece type], when the piece MPs are exhausted, it can no longer move [or that type can no longer move]...sitting ducks. |
|
| |
//(maximum) movement points attributed to each piece//
Well, I've got .... hmmm.... a bunch of stuff I didn't post yet, got sidetracked and wrote "Skirmish Chess" instead, but to give you a preview, the more advanced game includes "occupation points" based on distance from the home rows... and "attack points" based on resupply after an attack. |
|
| |
//less powerful than the Bishop// |
|
| |
Yeah, until you learn how to use them. |
|
| |