h a l f b a k e r yWith moderate power, comes moderate responsibility.
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Proximity sensors are mounted on each side of a door in a building. When a
person gets close
to the door a small pad on the opposite side illuminates, indicating that the door
is
about to swing open and allowing someone to step aside and not get whacked
by
the door.
not a very good category,
there is no public:safety
Door Opening Warning Light
Door_20Opening_20Warning_20Light
[bs0u0155, Aug 20 2021]
[link]
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Being safe has never been much of a halfbaked
quality. How about a sensor that does the exact
opposite? ie indicates that it's safe, but actually
assists the action of bashing into whomever gets to
the door in second position by having a motorised
batting action? |
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^ But hurting people would fly in the face of the Help file, and... hmm.
Bun for your anno. |
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I mean something that looked backwards and warned of
overtaking cyclists in the typically way to narrow bike lane
would be a good thing. Dooring is one of the most common
serious accidents involving cyclists. |
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I would like to have revolving doors with strobe
lights to see how many tries it takes to exit that
door! |
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As unofficial pilots, car drivers should just learn to read 360 degree radar displays. Was going to suggest that cyclists have Bluetooth odometers which tell doors to stay closed, but I fear that will lock in motorists behind them. |
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About the idea: I don't really think the sensor is necessary. Just always display the open door warning. |
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//Dooring is one of the most common serious accidents
involving cyclists.// |
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Before I ever got into a door accident I came up with this:
<link>. |
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Since then, I've had two incidents. The first, the door of a
1993 Midnight Blue Corolla, opened suddenly and
completely which I just swerved. Sadly, I couldn't swerve
back straight before snapping both my left forearm bones
on, coincidentally, a 1993 Camry (white) and more
importantly, bending my lovely 1986 Quad-Butted Fuji
beyond (I think) repair. The Corolla driver, got back in and
drove off and I, somehow locked my bike up one handed.
I can't replicate that while healthy, so I don't know what's
going on there. |
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The second time I'd been riding my motorbike, so still had
my Kevlar jeans, padded shirt and summer motorbike
gloves on and on my way to work on my mountain bike,
an Explorer(2005-ish?),Opened the door, again, fully and
suddenly. I slid the back end around, laid the bike down
under the door (handlebars now preventing the door
closing) and with something like the "red mist" calmly
pulled what with hindsight, was a big chap, out of his car
by his hair. 3 seconds, some shouting & pointing at large
forearm scars later and sanity resumed. I checked my
bike, and left a shell-shocked but hopefully educated guy
behind. I wonder how the police would have treated that?
Legally, he committed a traffic offence, but I reacted as
if it were attempted murder, and frankly committed
assault. |
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Anyhow, I learned lessons. 1. "Racing" derived road bikes
are not suitable for transport. Racing is a specific
application that requires focused hardware that demands
ridiculous compromises for normal use. You can't
commute on something that requires a gross change in
grip to operate the brakes. Also, the brakes & grip aren't
good enough and they're too fast for their own safety in
urban environments, and they bend when they hit
Camrys. |
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2. Mountain bikes are hard work and slow, but 2 1/2" tire,
disc brakes, suspension and room/leverage to wrestle the
thing around make them a better choice. Not as good as
an old English 3 speed however, they don't go fast enough
to crash, and need no maintenance. |
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Okay, so the first time I read this I missed the building
portion, and was thinking cars. Hence my comment. |
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And yeah, road bikes with single brake levers are not a good
idea for actual road riding. Dual levers in the drops and on
the flat bar are a better option. |
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//road bikes with single brake levers are not a good idea
for actual road riding.// |
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They're part of my wider thesis that racing ruins
everything. Road bikes, or more correctly, road-racing
replicas of varying levels of expense shot to popularity in
the 70's. But, they're maladapted for people's actual
needs. Do you need 12,18,21,24,27 etc. gears? No. Do you
need a huge number of gears delivered by a compromised
exposed gear train? What you need is 3 gears,
fenders/mudguards and a basket. the only reasonable
advance in bicycle technology in 70 years is disc brakes. |
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There are definite advantages to more gears, maybe not to
the higher end, but I would have extreme difficulty climbing
with a three speed. A 3x6 or 2x8 setup isn't that complex. |
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