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Every kitchen has cupboards and fixtures, the only problem is that they are fixed units. I propose installation of a grid like structure on the walls of the kitchen, with an array of mounting points.
Cupboards could be affixed at various positions, to suit the kitchen user, and when the time comes
for a change, simply unclip the cupboards and re-affix them where it suits you. The cupboards would need to be modular in design to accomodate different set-ups, they would need to link together and be stackable.
Sliding grooves on the ceiling will enable the kitchen user to slide the spice-rack to different parts of the kitchen at will.
(?) Hanging a heavy picture on battens
http://www.readersd...iy/webpages/234.htm
Scroll halfway down [thumbwax, Oct 04 2004]
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Annotation:
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Cut 2 long pieces of wood lengthwise at 30° angle.
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Cut lengths needed for the "Uppers" to be truly modular, glue and screw those pieces of wood to wall at height which allows removal of Uppers for exhange of position. Use a level, and be certain the narrow portion faces the wall - the wider away - 90° angle at bottom.
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Cut the remaining piece into appropriate lengths for each Modular Upper, glue and screw this to backrail of each Upper. Narrow side towards cabinet, wide towards wall, 90° angle at top.
Trimming the sides will be the fun part *snicker*
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In order to ensure that there is little movement from side to side, while at the same time avoiding some of the trim headaches, there are two options, perhaps one is a necessity to use some uncut (at an angle) pieces on cabinet *or* wall, at the ends of the cabinets, running the full length downwards, stopping short of the angled cuts. You'll just have to visualize that. This method can also be used to hang extremely heavy paintings/frames & wall sculptures in earthquake-prone areas.
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The other option is to simply have the sides of the cabinets be 7/8" deeper than the shelving, leaving 3/4" for the angled pieces, (which will interlock by default and remain stationary thanks to downward pressure, or as some like to say - gravity) and 1/8" for typical cabinet backing. This gives the overall appearance of the cabinetry a more "finished" appearance, even without trim.
Just be damn sure you have enough room to lift cabinet up without scarring ceiling. Should make for a nice "float" effect, though - with the desirable Modular attributes you require. |
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I'm not sure I follow, [TW]. Is the result that you have a half-dovetail interlocking thingy joint that yet allows cabinets to slide up and down? |
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Yes - fingers were just a-rollin' along, weren't they? |
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I've seen a kitchen design in which stainless steel grids are attached to the wall. Shelves and such (but not complete cupboards) can then be attached in whatever layout most suits the user. |
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Not too sure if I get all of that t-wax, sounds too complicated, I have a saw some wood-glue and a few struts from an old bunk-bed. |
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I would really like to re-make my shelves and cupboards but Alas I dont have one of those triangularly fat carpentry pencils. |
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I was thinking more along the lines of stainless cupboards. |
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See link - battens - a friend of mine (RIP) made a killing doing this for art all over LA after the last big quake. He came up with his own version in order to support his own frames. His version used 2x4's trimmed slightly. What I used as an example in the 1st annotation is the same wood as in the link, for demonstration porpoises. His frames were made of tile, and weighed at least several hundred pounds each as he skimped on nothing, and each painting was the size of a door, as canvas was on actual door blanks. - These were far heavier than Cabinet Uppers, even when cabinets are fully loaded.
Use a #2 pencil, sharpened - cabinet shops I woiked at always refused any former home ruiners, I mean builders a job, as they brought sloppy habits with them, such as fat triangular pencils. And remember - glue is what actually holds things up and together, not screws. |
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