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Early Girl, Amana Orange, Black
Brandywine, and Bulgarian Triumph
are just some of the proud heirloom
tomatoes waiting for their turn in
the
sun.
And now they have it: varietal
ketchup.
In order to produce varietal
ketchup,
it is essential to understand the
characteristics
different tomatoes
offer and how those characteristics
should be expressed in varietal
ketchup. This is the role of the
Varietal Ketchupier: a bold
entrepreneur who combines the
esoteric skills of a vintner, the soul
of
a gambler and the spicing knack of
a
master chef.
You and I will be among the top
cats
up on the totem pole of your foodie
friends. They will seethe with
jealousy as we retreat to our wine
cellar/ketchup vaults and debate
(sotto
voce), "A spunky Petite Sirah, the
obvious wine choice for tonight's
meal, but should we go with the
rare
"1998 Tiffin Mennonite" or the
reliable, silky "2000 Soldaki" or just
go crazy and break out the "1999
San
Marzano"... decisions... decisions!"
Much as many restaurants have a
"spicy dark" and a "yellow" mustard
on every table, soon they will have
standard old ketchup for the
unenlightened and at least one
other
for us, the sauce savants. A classy
joint will proffer a ketchup menu
without being asked.
Ketchup World
http://www.ketchupworld.com/
The world's largest purveyor of ketchup. [waugsqueke, Oct 04 2004, last modified Oct 05 2004]
partly there!
http://www.reimerse...aspx?categoryID=724
these guys are on the right track... just not fully baking it [DadManWalking, Jan 27 2005]
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If I had a million dollars,
We wouldn't have to eat Kraft Dinner.
(But we would eat Kraft Dinner. Of course we would, we'd
just eat more.
And buy really expensive ketchup with it.
That's right, all the fanciest Dijon Ketchup. Mmmmmm.) |
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[some lyrics from the Barenaked Ladies song "If I had a
million dollars"] |
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Since your grandmother was
clearly ahead of her time you
should start an informal but
vigorous audit of her practices and
doings. Somewhere in her kitchen
is yet another "next big thing."
Consider it your birthright. You
just have to figure out what it is
(or maybe this is just the varietal
ketchup talking...) |
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And to think I thought sauce came in only two varieties - "red" or "brown"! I like the idea of recognising the varieties and having ketchup tastings and the like, but do I have to swill it around and spit it out into a pristine spittoon to seem connoisseurial? |
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<aside> In the officers mess in the British Army, tomato ketchup is referred to as Sauce Rouge to give it an all-together more classy image.</aside> |
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'course, in my house, it's called tommy ketch! |
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ketchup is to fish what Posh is to Becks! Made for each other, you might say. |
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To choose the perfect ketchup, though, you need to consider not just the fish itself, but the batter, the chips — and even the additional flavourings such as salt and vinegar. |
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One approach is to choose a fresh, zingy light red sauce such as a Balham Bloomer to act like a squeeze of lemon with the food. |
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Or you can go for a soft, round, spicy type like Battersea Beauty to add a dimension of its own. |
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Clapham Yellow, a little fuller bodied than many pale sauces and satisfyingly rounded, goes beautifully, as does sparkling ketchup, the most luxurious option. I wouldn’t serve a brown sauce, though, as first choice; the onion extract in the sauce can give a hard taste in the mouth when partnering delicate fish. |
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Can anyone say, authoritatively, that ketchup wasn't sold like this at one time; or did Heinz simply mix 57 varieties together, called it good and bottled it? |
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Hey [po] are you cribbing from
Ketchup Spectator? I seem to
recognize the style... |
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Problems with the tomato paste underground, UnaBubba? The ketchup black market perhaps? |
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Aww, I'm sorry to hear that, UnaBubba. Shirley you've done a rigorous internal investigation? |
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Welcome to the bakery, Dad. (WTAGIPBAN) |
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Ahh - sweet, seductive and a smooth finish too - such a great vintage. Waiter, another bottle of the '63 and be quick about it - my chips (fries) are getting cold! |
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[jutta] I, too, was surprised, I
googled 'varietal
ketchup' 'varietal catsup' 'heirloom
ketchup' 'heirloom catsup'. I found
some recipes (the best sounding
included mustard, go figure) but
no commercial products. If you
help me score some of
the red stuff then the Barney's
Gourmet Burgers and the corkage
fees are on me. |
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But in the big picture I want more
than a single product, I want a
shelf or two of the grocery store
dedicated to varieties. We have 6
or so types of maple syrup and
dozens of pasta shapes in even
small grocery stores. This is just
the kind of injustice that lead to
the Attack of the Killer Tomatoes. |
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Looks like [Jutta] has found some
good leads (and a destination for
my next September culinary
expedition to stock the ketchup
vault.) |
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Let me know when you want your
barney's 'k? piedmont, shattuck,
college or solano? |
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This seems recipe-ish to me, but whuddoo I know. |
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// Tomato sauce is a creeping, insidious evil. // |
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Harsh words from someone so culinarily open-minded. How odd that such an innocent foodstuff so vexes thee. |
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its the Bubba, ignore him, till he comes up with a better recipe <drool> |
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[waugsqueke] //This seems
recipe-ish to me,
but whuddoo I know// |
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arrg. I'm new. This sounds like a
gentle reprimand. But in the food
area it seems like this should be
ok (or oker). But I take the point.
I'll watch it. |
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I looked at Ketchup World. Mostly
seemed that the differences were
not in the tomatoes but in the
spices and other matter. Sounded
yummy, but not like what I
describe. Must return to shopping
cart at Ketchup World... |
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Update on baking this one... |
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I have a neighbor who is in the
nursery business. Starts scads of
tomatoes and then carts them off
to the retailers as plants. This year
she said she'd planted 90 varieties.
Oy! it is early in the planting
season but we are consulting on
which would be most interesting.
Spicing is an issue... humanbean?
you still about? got any of your
grandmother's recipes? |
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I'm puttin off building the cellar
for a bit. |
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If you can get your hands on the UglyRipe tomato grown in limited quantity in Florida I think you'll find it the best tasting tomato you've ever had. I know that there is some ongoing dispute between the UglyRipe growers and some Tomato Commission that is preventing most of the crop from being shipped outside of Florida right now so they might be hard to get. |
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Got a link on the "Ugly tomato
grown in limited quantity in
Florida?" They sound like they
need a marketing deparment
overhaul. Is that really what they
call it? |
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did some digging: Procacci’s Ugly-
Ripe Tomatos they are called. Not
really all that ugly but I take back
what I said about the marketing. It
is a perfect name and reminds the
user that the taste is more
important. |
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