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When my car's cooling system is overworked, and my engine starts to heat up into the red zone, I am able to cool it down by turning on the heat. Of course the only time this happens to me is when I am at standing still in traffic in the summer heat. I would like to see a car heater with a dial that
lets you choose to vent the heat outside the car.
Fantech
http://www.hvacquic...rfnconfig.asp?fm=ld
Insulated ducting vendor [FloridaManatee, Oct 04 2004]
Might want to check here
http://www.radiators.com
[half, Oct 04 2004]
Not really relevant...
http://www.halfbake...ST_2011_20Amplifier
[silverstormer, Oct 04 2004]
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Annotation:
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This allows the heater core to act as an auxiliary radiator, as it already does, without roasting the occupants of the vehicle. |
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I'd try to fix the cooling system problem or find a higher capacity or more efficient radiator but, when you're on a tight budget, you gotta do what you gotta do. |
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Perhaps you could just open the hood and drive that way. You might need to install a plexiglass window in the hood to facilitate driving with it open. |
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This would essentially be an emergency setting, that should indicate to the driver that the cooling system needed an overhaul. I just want a car that lets me use this emergency tactic without making me overheat instead. You know, so I can abuse it, and let my car last longer before it breaks down due to my inattention... |
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Hot day, high altitude, pulling a bit too much weight up a long grade. Radiator is *almost* enough to keep the temp out of the red. Windows down, heater blowing... here, have a croissant - and something cold to wash it down. |
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I recommend you turn your engine off in stationary traffic, if you know you're going to be stuck for a while. A well maintained enging doesn't require too much electrical energy to restart from warm and you save gas and save the environment, too. |
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If you really want to implement your solution, here's a bodge: buy a length of insulated flexible exhaust ducting (e.g. from Fantech, see link) and construct a simple hand-made vent coupler. Close off all but the driver's side vent and store the pipe in the glove compartment. |
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Alternatively, get your mechanic to retrofit the system you proposed to your car. The simplest way would be to disconnect the heat-exchanger ducting to the vents in summer (via a clip on/off system). The engine then vents into the open engine compartment. Check with your mechanic that there is nothing wrong with this set-up first. |
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Alternatively, buy a better car (you know you deserve it). |
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Replace your radiator with a better one. |
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A bit of ducting is cheaper, and the existing radiator might serve 98% of the time. It sounds good to me. |
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Driving with your hood off I think may actually worsen the problem, due to the change of airflow around the radiator and engine. It might depend on whether your engine is mounted longitudinally or transversely. |
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This could also be useful when first starting the car on a hot day; until the vent system gets cooled down, all it does is blast hot air into the already-too-hot passenger compartment. Having someplace else to dump the heat would be good. |
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I've come into this situation while driving the Tercel up steep mountain roads, in extra-low gear (neatest thing ever!) during August. A few times in fact. |
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I guess we could get a better radiator, but that'd add weight. It also doesn't have the whole "hey! check this out!" factor either. :) |
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I thought it's a okay Idea. Here, I'l give you the rest of the second crosent |
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After having to run my car heater in 95 degree weather, and showing up to a fundraiser looking like I was swimming in my dress shirt, I thought I would revisit this idea... |
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Put a switch inline to your heater fan to reverse polarity. Turn up the heat full blast, set your fan to max, flip the reverse switch, and the fan will suck the air out of the cabin, through the heat exchanger, and out the air "intake". This might also have a side benefit of blowing debris out of the intake grate. |
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Baked by some American company years ago. I think it
was an AMC product, but I'm probably wrong. I heard this
on cartalk; what they did was have a lever labeled
"normal" and "desert" (or was that "dessert"?-stole that
from cartalk too). When you slid the lever to desert,
the hot air passing over the heater core was vented
outside, exactly as you describe. Later dropped when
they figured out how to design the cooling system
properly to begin with. |
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just shoot a bunch of holes in you car.there good for speed,cooling and intimidation.tercel to the max |
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Yeah, just shoot a bunch of holes in your car. They're we go. |
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They're speed holes, Flanders. Make the car go faster. Don't you know anything? |
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you could play music on the holes like a big flute as you drive down the freeway cooling off that radiator. you could turn up the radio at stoplights and play music, too but the radiator problem comes back. your call. |
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Throw some washers on the stops for the hood nearest the windshield.... this would allow air to vent out the back of the hood better.... your fan and radiator would still be enclosed and functional.... (cowl induction hood style) |
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What I do is I disconnect the hot air conduct in summer (mine is air cooled Citroen). It works OK. |
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Uhh, fqhwgads, that was already said in the FIRST ANNO! sheesh. |
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[dbsousa], but, why don't you just make "ten" hotter? |
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my vent dial only goes to 4. :( |
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Daseva: I take it you've never seen "This is Spinal Tap!"? |
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I take it you've forgotten my quote, then, [Freefall]. |
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Marty DiBergi: Why don't you just make ten louder and make ten be the top number and make that a little louder? |
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Nigel Tufnel: [Pause.] These go to eleven. |
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