h a l f b a k e r y0.5 and holding.
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Avoid the need to cool a soldering iron before placing it wherever it is kept, through the use of a hollow sheath that would protect the contents of your toolbox from the hot iron as it slowly dissipates its heat through several poorly heat-conducting alternating layers of ceramic and foam.
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I've successfully managed to burn holes in the carpet of two apartments now with my crappy soldering iron. You'd think I'd learn. |
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Dunk in water. It's a good idea to unplug it first. |
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My Hakko portable soldering iron (battery-powered, not
fuel-powered) came with a plastic sheath. I haven't actually
had occasion to use the thing yet (in the ~4 years since I
bought it), so I don't know how protective the sheath is
against the residual heat. It clips onto the iron's body and
doesn't touch the tip. IIRC, it has some vent holes in the
end, like a pen cap, but much larger. The heat that escapes
there, by convection and radiation, is probably not
significantly dangerous even to tissue paper held against the
holes. |
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This is an OK idea, but the sheath would get lost easily. Make
it a retractable sheath - like a telescope tube. |
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One of those "Nobody's done this before?" moments. I've had
lots of soldering irons and never seen it. [+] |
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I'd just retract the heated tip. There's already an insulated
part so you wouldn't really need to add anything except the
slidy bits. |
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No, because that means flexible cabling, as the element is usually inside, or underneath, the tip. Much better to have a cylindrical ceramic-lined sleeve that slides forward over the tip, and clips in place. |
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When retracted, it forms part of the handle. |
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