h a l f b a k e r yI didn't say you were on to something, I said you were on something.
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There are many types of water heating systems. The
most
common in the US is the tank type <link>. This is a
simple
beast, a water tank, heating elements and a
thermostatic
switch. The water in the tank is heated to a target
temperature and maintained by the thermostat switching
the heating
element on and off. When hot water is
drawn
off, cold water enters to replace it. The only nod to
sophistication is that this cold water enters at the
bottom,
in an attempt to prevent the hot and cold water mixing
and cooling the outflow. This doesn't work. The result is
a
declining water temperature in times of peak demand.
The standard solution is to buy a bigger one. More water,
larger heating element. It ameliorates but doesn't solve
the
problem. Worse, the larger tank leaks heat for all the
time
of the day it isn't being used, only a little more,
proportional to the extra surface area, but more.
The solution, is phase change. When solids melt, they
absorb a huge amount of heat energy for no real change
in
temperature. Conversely, when liquids freeze, they give
out a tremendous amount of heat energy while the
temperature stays the same. This is the principle behind
ice in drinks, and the coffee cup I invented <link> that
someone inconsiderately invented before me* <link>.
So, water heater, tank style. Water in the tank. Tank has
chamber inside filled with a wax that melts at say 50
Celsius. No need for double walls or any such
sophistication. Even a couple of sealed metal tubes of
reasonable volume would do it. Now, the heating
elements
heat up the water and as it approaches maximum
regulated temperature, the wax starts to melt. As the
thermostat clicks off, the wax is liquid. Now, water is
demanded, hot water leaves and cold water rushes in.
The
temperature drop is detected and the heating element
turns on. Simultaneously the wax begins to solidify
transferring huge heat capacity to the water.
A kg of standard hydrocarbon wax will melt with 220kJ
energy given off, which will be enough to heat 52 liters
of
water one degree. So 10kg would provide very significant
heat buffering capability, in a package 1/60th the
volume
of water. So you could have a much more stable tap
temperature without a bigger tank leaking more heat.
Now, if someone would kindly make one and send it
over,
perhaps I could have a shower unimpeded by the
ancillary
bath/laundry demands.
*My invention lacked the leaky lid feature.
Tank Type Water Heater
https://www.onecomm...014/06/Picture3.jpg [bs0u0155, Nov 06 2017]
Eutectic Coffee Cup
Eutectic_20Cup [bs0u0155, Nov 06 2017]
Real Eutectic Coffee Cup
https://joeveo.com/ [bs0u0155, Nov 06 2017]
[link]
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"Dystectic" should be a thing. I'm just not sure what sort of thing
yet. |
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As soon as it's decided on, they can begin work on
an appropriate ointment.. |
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I'm struggling to think of a reason why this wouldn't
work - which is unusual for an idea here |
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It turns out there are a few specialist binary materials with
latent heats over 330 kJ/kg. I can imagine you could make
some pretty energetic chain events, perhaps a liquid that
binds water and releases it on solidification, a second liquid
with a lower melting temperature binds the water in an
exothermic manner. And so on, in a dreary chemical type
way. |
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One wonders, does one, why such isn't commonly used as passive solar thermal mass, instead of a rock or cement wall [edit: one has just found ou that they do]. More expensive of course, but not by much... in fact you could pour the stuff into the holes in breezeblocks for some random amount of effectiveness. |
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Also, "Lavalamp Water Heater". |
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