h a l f b a k e r y"Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
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No matter which type of screwdriver you use, the most
common failure mode when trying to loosen over-tightened
screws is for the screwdriver blade to slip out of the
screwhead, Usually, in doing so, it also damages the slot in
the screwhead, so that subsequent attempts are even more
likely
to fail.
I think screwdrivers (of any design) would work better if
their
tips were coated with a very fine abrasive (industrial
diamond
would be the best bet). This would cause the screwdriver
to
bind very tightly against the sides of the screw's slot, and
make it much less likely to slip out.
Diamond Coated Screwdriver Bits
http://www.wihatool...700_diamondbits.htm
[bs0u0155, Mar 08 2015]
Triangle wedge screws
http://www.chakwame...uct-detail-338.html
In terms of geometry's association with force-application, for driving a screw, this may be the best. [Vernon, Mar 09 2015]
Here's a quite nice set from Amazon
http://www.amazon.c...river/dp/B0041SVZRE
[zen_tom, Mar 09 2015]
[link]
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I suspect that the most common cause of your most
common failure mode is using the wrong size screwdriver. |
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They've been around for a while, <link. it's actually best to
consider screwdriver bits as consumables, particularly with
power tools. In that case, the economics favour titanium
nitride or tungsten carbide. |
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oh, and what 21 said. My misfortune with
screws/screwdrivers disappeared in a roughly inversely
proportional manner to my ability to recognize sizing. |
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I once did some maintenance on some German GR1
Tornados. The offset cross head things they have might as
well just be rivets. At least 80% needed stud extractors or
drilling out. I wouldn't have minded if they were titanium,
at least then there would have been a reason. |
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Why not just get rid of outdated flat and phillips type screw heads in favour of cap head or torx? Much more transmissable torque before gouging, and it forces you to use the right size bit - failure of which is why most screw heads come apart. |
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If you want to do up and undo flat and phillips head screws over and again you need proper hollow ground flat head screwdriver bits in a number of sizes, and a complete set of phillips head bits. Might as well have a allen or torx set instead and do the job proper like. |
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I think the movement to hex/torx is well underway. My
recent forays into the innards of a new Macbook have
taught me that although the conversion is well underway,
the super small screws are all inevitably still phillips. I'm
tempted to say it's because a countersunk screw head has a
profile which closely fits that of a pointy screwdriver. |
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If it is mission critical, any driver that works that replaces the one correct one missing from the new set gets my smile. |
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I'd like to add my vote in favour of the world utilising
Robertson bits (square). They grip well enough to the bit
you can put the screw onto the driver first then move into
position and grab so well you're more likely to twist the
screw head off than slip. Colour coded too. (good idea
though) [+] |
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//They've been around for a while, <link>.// |
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Ah. Well, then, that's OK. |
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As for choosing the right size screwdriver, or various
head geometries - yes, but better grip is still helpful. |
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If the tips were circular and completely smoothly-polished, the number of contact points could be infinite. Clearly that's the design of choice... |
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//circular and completely smoothly-polished// |
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That works actually, drill a nice neat hole down the middle
of a stripped bolt, bash in some mild steel rod for a good
interference fit (bonus points for dipping the rod in LN2
first) then either bend it over or grind a pair of flats on the
rod for the biggest adjustable spanner you have. |
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I like that last. The LN2 is nifty. You could use dry ice in a pinch. |
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Yeah, and flat headed screwdrivers can chisel a new slot on
a screw which matches the screwdriver exactly... |
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//flat headed screwdrivers can chisel a new slot on a
screw which matches the screwdriver exactly// |
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well now, so you're the apprentice that was walloping the
back of a screwdriver with the 5lb lump hammer? exactly
how far into that 316 stainless screw did you get before
you split the screwdriver handle by pounding it down the
shaft? hmm? |
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Now, correct procedure with a protruding head is to
hacksaw (Dremmel is an acceptable answer) a slot into it.
Should there be no protruding
head, or you've already destroyed the head, move onto
the tungsten screw extractors. That driver's coming out
of your wages. |
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Do your drivers beat out a rhythm ? |
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He use to carry his guitar in a gunny sack
And sit beneath the trees by the railroad track.
Oh, the engineers used to see him sitting in the shade,
Playing to the rhythm that the drivers made.
People passing by would stop and say
Oh my that little country boy could play |
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Some screwdrivers are seemingly made to accept a large
hammer blow from the end. These are best to keep very
apart from the electrical screwdrivers that are less
conductive. Yes, I'm also the apprentice that works on live
connections. |
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Reading the title made me think it was going to be a really
dumb idea. Change to "diamond-tipped"? |
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If ease of disassembly is the goal, the LN2 provides the best answer. Simply dip the entire apparatus that needs taken apart or pour the LN2 over it, and then go at it with a mallet. |
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I have had luck extracting a wedged penny from the disposal using dry ice. I like the idea of unwedging metal by supercooling it. |
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A problem with LN2 is that it slops all around: a waste of coolth. Even the stuff that hits the metal of interest stays only for a moment. |
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hmm hmm hmm - inspiration! |
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[notexactly], that is not such a stupid idea. I'm not
sure what would remain gel-like at LN2
temperatures, but there must be something. |
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//what would remain gel-like at LN2 temperatures// - Maybe just an ice slush of something else that melts at somewhere above N2 evaporation temperature? |
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