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I know there is a battery in desktop computers that powers the BIOS and the clock, but why not have a larger battery in case of power failure? This would be similar to a laptop battery, but smaller. When the computer detects that the power input has been removed, it would operate on the battery.
It
would only be built to sustain power for about 5 minutes, to keep the cost low. However, this could save work in case of a blackout, power failure, or even accidental disconnection.
Part of the voltage input would be transferred to charge the battery, which would not take long.
(???) Desktop Computer Battery Manufacturers
http://computers-in...omputer-battery.htm
Find Desktop Computer Battery manufacturers,exporters and wholesale suppliers business listings, Computer Batteries buyers and sellers business trade leads from all over the world [Exportersindia, Jun 05 2015]
[link]
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D'oh! I didn't know about that. Thanks |
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Many server-type desktops do have built-in
batteries, usually added-on (added-in?) back UPS
companies. Problem is, it's really expensive, and
troublesome to deal with when the battery
eventually dies. It's easier to user a UPS like
skegger suggested. |
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This is extremely baked, considering I'm using one right now. |
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Hi, [Exportersindia], welcome to the Halfbakery! Now kindly
go fuck yourself with a cactus. |
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Although baked, I still think there's room for improvement. |
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It would be great if PC power supplies had an auxiliary input, so 100-240V in, and DC-24V in for example. The DC could be ignored unless a suitable battery is plugged directly in, in which case it would make the desktop PC behave like a laptop PC. Minimal electronics in the battery pack, and variable capacity with the PC power supply both charging the pack and selectively using it. No large and expensive UPS required. |
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Hopefully one could operate peripherals, such as the monitor, off the new 100W USB ports, so they'd also be powered. |
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100W USB? Jeez, a USB kettle can't be far off then? |
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Jeez indeed. That's 20 amps at 5 volts! |
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if you're going by regular safety guidelines, you need 12
gauge (approx. 2mm) wire. That's 4mm just for the power
lines. Don't wrap it around anything iron, or you'll be the
local North. Was this new standard approved by a large
copper concern? |
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Not sure what voltage the new USB will run at when delivering power, but yep, 100W. [edit: looks like up to 20V, so 5A] |
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