h a l f b a k e r y"Bun is such a sad word, is it not?" -- Watt, "Waiting for Godot"
add, search, annotate, link, view, overview, recent, by name, random
news, help, about, links, report a problem
browse anonymously,
or get an account
and write.
register,
|
|
|
| |
I'm more of a bah humbugger myself, but I like getting two jobs done with one tool, and the new LEDs can be pretty (+) |
|
| |
Spreads holiday cheer in prisons too! [++] |
|
| |
You should market these as razor wire alert holiday lights. |
|
| |
Please clarify what you mean by "blended". For example,
if you just have a razor wire twisted with a string of
lights, when they are wound and unwound from the
spool, the razor may end up cutting through the
insulation. |
|
| |
I think what you might need to do is use the stainless
steel as the hot conductor (which has the added benefit
of making it an electric razor wire fence). Now LEDs
want a much lower voltage than an electric fence, and
you need a ground wire as well. With high voltage and a
point, you can get electrons to shoot off into the air. I'm
not sure if you could get enough current to light your
LEDs that way. Another possibility would be to have
enough wire on the other side of the LED to act as an
antenna, then use high frequency AC. (Don't tell the
FCC). |
|
| |
Mmmm, Tesla coil, mmmmm .... |
|
| |
Yes, we're back on form ... |
|
| |
Perhaps run huge voltage on the razor wire and have a 2-
volts-less wire to serve as ground. This should light the LEDs,
and when a miscreant encounters the razor wire they'll supply
their own ground and, well, a good time will be had by all. |
|
| |
... and there was Much Rejoicing. |
|
| |
[whatrock] How to you intend to make sure the high
voltage and high voltage - 2V wires won't short out? It's
back to the original problem I stated of the insulation
getting sliced by the razor wire. Shorting out the LED
circuit won't affect the ability to shock intruders, but it
could make the LEDs stop functioning |
|
| |
Reminds of the days of yore - well actually mine - where one bulb out in a string shut down the whole string, and you tested the string bulb by bulb. Series, I believe they called it. |
|
| |
Wind them around the abandoned cars and the bridge over the swimming pool so the kids lawyers will have a slam dunk case. See link |
|
| |
One might covertly leave the separate accompanying
multitudinous strings of LED lights unlit until said miscreant
touches the highly-charged razor wire whereupon a relay
closes, illuminating the lights and simultaneously blasting a
rousing chorus of "Shock The Monkey". |
|
| |
Razor wire usually has the razors at regular intervals, right? It surely isn't that difficult to wind ordinary christmas lights around it and avoid them. |
|
| |
Alternatively, instead of razors, you could make the LED bulbs out of bits of broken glass. |
|
| |
Maybe that Trump chap will buy some or get someone else to
pay. |
|
| |
[mixtela] I was going to suggest a system for making sure
the wires didn't touch the razors, then I realized that
wire is normally stored on a spool before installation. I
assumed the same is true of razor wire. |
|
| |
After some research I see that razor wire comes in neat
spirals (like a slinky) with all of the blades lined up, so it
actually might work to just run lights along with them. |
|
| |
I shouldn't have been surprised to find that it's available
on amazon.com ("in stock, arrives before Christmas").
Also not surprising is that the number 1 entry for "What
do customer buy after viewing this item?" is cut resistant
gloves. |
|
| |
//Series, I believe they called it.// You could presumably do that with LEDs - just wire 120 of them in series, put 240V mains across them, and you'll have 2V drop across each one. |
|
| |
If you wanted to be clever, you'd have two such series in anti-parallel, to make use of both halves of the AC cycle. |
|
| |
I once tried it, years ago, just to see why mains LED light bulbs have such elaborate power supplies in them. I bought a few hundred white LEDs on eBay and took a hefty diode bridge and capacitor from an old TV. |
|
| |
It failed in an unexpected way. The whole series lit up, but within seconds many of the LEDs died. But they died in a way that didn't break the chain, just stopped emitting light. |
|
| |
I think what happened is the forward voltage of each LED is slightly different due to manufacturing variations, but the series means every LED has the same current going through it. So some of them form a blockage in the chain, which then feels a voltage high enough to break it, and break it in a way that it stays conducting. |
|
| |
I think you're probably right, [mixtela]. |
|
| |
I recently bought some cheap LED floodlights which may be wired in the same way. Many of the LEDs have failed. |
|
| |
You should have bought your lamps from BorgCo .... |
|
| |
"This organization does not tolerate failure ..." |
|
| |
//bah humbugger myself//
made me chuckle |
|
| |
Got a snow gun and some Luminol. Pretty Christmassy patterns between flashes. |
|
| |
"Just put these goggles on ... this year, we've decorated the hallway on an edgy, innovative arterial-spray-and-ALS theme ...." |
|
| |
Very bright idea. You one colorful guy, with a sharp sense of
humor. (ducks, waves, Hi [Denholmie]!!! |
|
| |
// why mains LED light bulbs have such elaborate power
supplies in them // |
|
| |
LEDs don't work well when you try to put a fixed voltage
across them. Small part to part variation, changes in
temperature, or slight changes in voltage will result in a
huge variation in the current. You need to control the
current. The easy way to do that is with a resistor in
series, but that's not terribly efficient or accurate. The
"better" way to do it is with a power supply that
measures the current and keeps that constant with a
feedback loop. |
|
| |