h a l f b a k e r yMay contain nuts.
add, search, annotate, link, view, overview, recent, by name, random
news, help, about, links, report a problem
browse anonymously,
or get an account
and write.
register,
|
|
|
Please log in.
Before you can vote, you need to register.
Please log in or create an account.
|
Rather than bringing your 19 year old car to the garage and
having the catalytic converter cleaned while filling the
atmosphere of the whole town, if not the whole region, and
this is one potentially explosive region, with unbreathable
soot, the Auto-cleaning catalytic converter takes the same
gasoline that is used to clean it once in 19 years, and sends it
through the pipes once or twice a month.
Can you clean a catalytic converter? The short answer - you can't.
http://www.life123....ic-converters.shtml
[normzone, Apr 21 2015]
[link]
|
| |
Hm, I've never heard of cleaning a catalytic
converter. I've also never had a 19 year old gasoline
car though so maybe I was just 2 years away from
needing it done. |
|
| |
On the diesel busses I used to drive the diesel
particulate filter was self-cleaning. |
|
| |
During 18 months working with 50+ UK garages, I never
heard of a dirty catalytic converter. The only time they
ever seemed to break was when a super hot one
encountered a big puddle ("spirited driving" 'round the
better roads in the pennies was a culprit) and cracked. I
suspect this is a US thing. Having seen how cars are
treated here, I'm not surprised. I suspect prevention is
better than dubious cures here. Don't put stickers over
check engine lights. What ever that really nasty stuff at
the gas stations is, I'm amazed you can call it fuel. Get
the 93 octane stuff, it's still terrible compared to the 98
octane in europe, but at least it won't leave your tank
1/5th full of water like the 87 RON ethanol garbage. |
|
| |
My point being, if you don't poison a cat, they are self
cleaning. |
|
| |
Catalytic convertors only need to work for the annual test. So the trick
is to buy a pre-owned unit, and swap it for the one in your vehicle.
Keep the original on the shelf. Then, once a year, swap in the standby
unit just for the test, then put the other one back once it's passed. |
|
| |
A few minutes work with a couple of spanners can save you $$$$$$$
! |
|
| |
//Catalytic converters only need to work for the annual
test// |
|
| |
//buy a pre-owned unit, and swap it for the one in your
vehicle.// |
|
| |
Nah, by a de-cat pipe. Bolts straight in, then, swap your
real cat back in for the emissions inspection. |
|
| |
//A few minutes work with a couple of spanners // |
|
| |
heh... on a new car maybe.. |
|
| |
You should pretty much count on the nuts and bolts
holding an exhaust together to be a rusted mess. You can
pretty much count on having to cut them off, so save
time and buy a whole box of nuts bolts and washers. |
|
| |
The trick is to use stainless steel nuts, bolts and washers, and replace
them every year. Keep one "dirty" set of plain steel ones for the test. |
|
| |
It's useful to have a look alike device in line, then if anyone looks, they
see a "cat". Not your fault if your emissions are above spec ... how are
you to know ? How many private citizens own an EGT unit ? |
|
| |
Stainless is pricey, and tough to cut. You don't need to
worry about shiny bolts. Why does the test centre care if
you recently replaced an exhaust component? It's not
their job to do retrospective exhaust emissions detective
work. When they issue an MOT, they're only certifying
that it was within compliance in their hands. |
|
| |
//It's useful to have a look alike device in line// |
|
| |
Take an old cat, a lump hammer and a scaffolding pole.
not as svelte as a proper de-cat pipe. Actually, my '96
MX5 passed the emissions test with no cat. Trick was to
have the engine well and truly up to temp. I think it was
something to do with it being a relatively low
compression engine by modern standards. |
|
| |
My cat (which incidentally resembles Garfield in almost
every way) refuses to enter the motor. |
|
| |
Seriously, after reading normzone's link, what the guy
was doing was cleaning my motor and carburetor. He
explained that it was "cleaning the catalytic converter"
which perhaps was simply overloaded with soot. |
|
| |
I don't know, but it definitely put out a lot of dirt, and did
clean up the system (It smelled terribly before, and now
hardly at all, getting better each day). |
|
| |
A new one (pertaining [evilpenguin]'s suggestion, costs
the same price as the old car I decided to take a chance
on (and meanwhile am very happy with it). |
|
| |
I was told to bring it in for a re-test next week, and
meanwhile drive around with it. It did not pass the
second test after cleaning. Actually got worse. |
|
| |
carburetor? and a catalytic converter? Wait, does your
starting handle interfere with your radar collision sensor?
I'm confused. |
|
| |
Normally Cats are only fitted to engines with fairly
modern fuel air control systems. Normally, sooted up
engines are a result of one, or a combination of: many
short journeys, terrible fuel, dirty idle control valves
dirty/faulty mass air flow sensors or exhaust O2 sensors.
You could always get yourself down to a junk yard and
get new sensors and a new cat. Alternatively, find
something new and crashed. Anything with the right
diameter exhaust pipe you can take the cat from, any
moderately skilled exhaust shop should be able to splice
it in for you. |
|
| |