I don't know many times have I have come up against the problem of cutting out something in a tight corner. Recipricating saws hit the tip or are too long. Circular saws don't have the distance or are too bulky. Renovators are too underpowered and don't have the material clearance.

How about a tool, like a shearing handle that holds the combs, but instead of being recipricating, has a line of small circular blades. I'm thinking the blades are like those double blade saws but the blades are offset. Think Olympic symbol except consequecutive blades are in a diffferent plane.

The offset is to allow drive shafts and support frame in to the blade hubs but be covered by the next blade. The offset also allows material to freely escape.

Matching the turn of the circular blades allows for kickback control.

A couple of small guide spikes, from between the blades, could be used to grip material while plunging for stability and placement.

Motors are quite small and powerful now so could be packed into the handle. I wouldn't want the size to defeat the primary purpose, though. A cable drive could be an alternative solution and then a bigger motor and battery system could be utilised.

So when looking at those jobs, a smile on the inside is the norm.
-- wjt, Nov 16 2016

Hole Saws https://www.google....lQKHR2rDrMQ_AUIBygC
That's what this Idea sounds like, to me. [Vernon, Nov 17 2016]

Mortising bit http://www.toolplan...f3djMrRUaAqIW8P8HAQ
[RayfordSteele, Nov 17 2016]

Cut-n-Break http://www.husqvarn...k-3000-cut-n-break/
[scad mientist, Nov 20 2016]

Ring Saw http://www.husqvarn...-range/k-6500-ring/
Another deep-cutting method [scad mientist, Nov 20 2016]

The norm is smiling inside.
-- normzone, Nov 16 2016


Dremel makes a good one too. I think this idea might have too many moving parts. (+) for the visual.
-- 2 fries shy of a happy meal, Nov 16 2016


Precursor to the Dremelight Saber. Nifty! [+]
-- whatrock, Nov 16 2016


Do you envision this being used only in a plunging motion, or also pushing it sideways once plunged?
-- scad mientist, Nov 16 2016


I used to date an engineer who talked like that in bed when she got excited ;-)
-- normzone, Nov 16 2016


How about a square hole drill bit?
-- RayfordSteele, Nov 16 2016


A mortice drill bit and its chisel box take a lot of push force. The one i used to use was in a drill press. Cutdrill would be easier to push.

[Vernon] the blades are like small circular saw blades alternating on eitherside of the drive mechanism.
XXXXXX---XXXXXXX--XXXXXXXX
----N-----V-----N---- V-----N drive mechanisms
----XXXXXXXX---XXXXXXXX
edge on the 5 discs

[scad mientist]I can imagine if there is room then cutting along, at 45deg, like a normal renovator would be posssible. Although plunge cutting in steps along a line would be safer.
-- wjt, Nov 19 2016


The "drawing" helped a lot to see what you intended. How do you remove material left between the blades? That could limit the cutting depth.

This is a bit similar to the Cut-n-Break <link>. The cut-n-break is mainly meant for concrete, so again removing the wood between the blades could be an issue in some situations.

Have you considered using a chainsaw for this? You might want to get a carbine tipped chain if there could be any nails.
-- scad mientist, Nov 20 2016


[scad mientist] I was imagining a very powerful, hair trimmer sized, plunge cutter for 2x4, heavy floor board. Thinking circular blades rather than recipricating.

Wood break out would depend on gap between blades and type of wood grain. A chain might be a way to go but again the drive wheel might bulk up tool size. Circular would have better swarf clearing on plunging.
-- wjt, Nov 20 2016



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