The 3d printed electrical motor
Noting that wires seem like they might be more effective at variable width or even as branched conductors, there could be bigger conductors near the core with finer windings near the perimeter where the field actually moves things.
I have read that magnetic motions wiggle wire windings affecting motor longevity, thus 3D printing the conductor at a nonmobile compound minimizes motional stresses.
3d printing is nearer to optimizing all motor conductors, cooling effects, as well as geometry.
The technology
I suppose the technical thing is actually printing metal A company known as Shapeways has a system that prints silver so printing Cu seems quite possible.
It may be possible to do the 3D printing with areas of polymer as well as metal that have different coefficients of thermal shrinkage or expansion, that way printing the polymer around the metal at a 120 degrees F would cause the polymer to shrink to stabilize at 100 degrees. a 3d printer could truly optimize the compression structures ( ) around the winding, with FEA the vibration modes could be very accurately predicted creating quieter as well as far from rattleapart geometries.
Another person might ask if the resolution of 3d printers is fine enough to print smaller than the nonconductive coating on current magnet wire, the fusion polymer at ink jet printers now is over 4800 DPI ($39.99), so precision placement of hypertiny fusible polymers is fairly well developed.
Bearingless motors are published, so perhaps if bearings were printed they might be light or minimal duty. It is possible than a nonannealed Molybdenum Vanadium (MoV) might be firm yet autolubricating. Lasers could anneal 3d printed things yet it just seems simpler to use something with natural strength.
Also the 3d printed motor could actually make some things like glitterlike polepieces to concentrate the magnetic field at the perimeter as well
Its pretty obvious, after I thought about it I found out about the Urbee, a printed electric car body. I think they must have thought about printing motors as well, Yet there is not a 3d printed motor at the top of a search page yet.-- beanangel, Feb 29 2012 3d printed silver https://www.google....f7&biw=1920&bih=880 [beanangel, Feb 29 2012] bearingless motor https://www.google....al&client=firefox-a [beanangel, Feb 29 2012] 4800 DPI at 39.99 http://www.compusa....=4774473&CatId=2709 [beanangel, Feb 29 2012] motor with pole pieces at the conductor higher_20efficiency...ted_20pole_20pieces [beanangel, Feb 29 2012] the 3d printed car body http://urbeecar.blogspot.com/I think the Urbee people must have peviously considered printing electric motors [beanangel, Feb 29 2012] Now this I like.
Can I suggest alternative strategies for printing, since metal printing has its problems?
First, you could print using a "lost wax" polymer in place of metal. Then remove the "wax" and inject a low-melting-point alloy. (In fact, if there were any advantage to it, you could inject mercury.)-- MaxwellBuchanan, Feb 29 2012 Inspired. I find myself utterly unable to generate a single word of sarcastic, half-educated criticism.-- Alterother, Feb 29 2012 [+]
What [MB] said though I think it's a bit more complicated than that: there's (at least) 3 distinct substances: conductor, insulator and load-bearing structure, to consider.
[21Q] the 3d printing is a method of achieving an otherwise pretty unachievable goal.-- FlyingToaster, Feb 29 2012 //how are you going to build internal structures and insulation//
I was assuming that all the conductors in the finished article must connect out somehow.
I've tried something similar in 2D - making a microfluidic chip in PDMS (glorified silicone sealant) with channels a few tens of microns wide/deep. I've then injected low-melting (60°C) alloy into the channels to create complex electrodes.-- MaxwellBuchanan, Feb 29 2012 Problem with lost-wax how are you going to fill a say 200 foot long tube (the wire) that varies its width from 1/16 - 1/4" and branches out ?-- FlyingToaster, Feb 29 2012 //how are you going to fill a...//
I don't see the problem. The length of tube isn't a problem (you just fill slowly, and/or using a high pressure).
Filling branched channels isn't a problem either. In some cases you'd risk air entrapment, but this can be avoided by putting the thing under vacuum at the outset.
Also, at least one polymer (PDMS) absorbs air. This means that you can de-gas it under vacuum for a few hours, and then it will slowly suck air back into itself, drawing liquids into any channels and leaving them bubble-free. It's highly cool.-- MaxwellBuchanan, Feb 29 2012 random, halfbakery